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   | Home | Machine Knitting | Hints and Tips | Holding Position | Frilled | Free Newsletter   |   Back  < | >  Forward   
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Knitted frill
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How to make knitted frills

... and yes - you will need to knit a Tension Square!

This diagram shows you how to design a sideways-knitted frilled cuff:


Knitting flared cuffs with Holding Position

Click here to view/print a larger diagram (pdf format)
(Best results when printed)


Tension: 28 sts and 40 rows to 10 cms (4")

  1. The width of the cuff determines the number of rows you knit for the frill. In the example above, the cuff width = 20 cms (8"). According to the known tension, 80 rows need to be knitted at the left-hand edge of the frill in order for it to fit the cuff.

  2. In the diagram, there are 8 sections to be knitted, so divide the number of rows by 8. This gives a result of 10 rows, which must be knitted without any shaping (straight knitting).

  3. As a general 'rule of thumb' for this type of frill, the wedges (coloured pink) above and below the straight knitting should each have at least the same number of rows at the right-hand edge as the straight part (10 rows). More rows will give you a fuller frill - fewer rows will give you a flare rather than a frill.

    However many rows you decide on, add 2 to this number. This allows for at least one block of needles to remain in working position at all times while keeping the row count correct - if you have all the needles in hold position, you can't knit any rows!

  4. Say that the width of the frill required was 7.5 cms (3"). The number of stitches required, according to the tension, is 21.

  5. With the number of stitches (21) and rows (10+2=12) known, go to the Triangle Calculator and enter the numbers in the boxes. Tick the box labelled 'Even rows needed'. This ensures that you can use Hold Position for short rowing. Should your wedge rows work out to an odd number, add 1 more row.

  6. The result is:
    4 sts every alternate row 3 times (6 rows = 12sts)
    3 sts every alternate row 3 times (6 rows = 9sts)

  7. Start knitting the frill within one of the straight sections. This will make it easier for sewing the ends together and for using Hold Position. In this example, the last 4 rows of a straight section are knitted first. The first 6 rows will be knitted at the end.

    Cast on with waste yarn and knit a few rows (COL), knit in nylon cord leaving carriage on right (COR).
    Change to main yarn.

    Start of Section

    Knit 4 rows. COR. (RC 4)
    Set carriage for Hold.

    *** Bring 4 needles forward to Hold position at the left-hand end of the working needlebed.
    Knit 1 row. Wrap yarn round 1st inside needle in Hold Position (HP) and knit one row. ***
    Repeat from *** to *** two times more (RC 10))

    * Bring 3 needles forward to Hold position at the left-hand end of the working needlebed. Knit 1 row. Wrap yarn round 1st inside needle in HP and knit one row. *
    Repeat from * to * once more (RC 14).

    Note: Knitting the wedge has been completed within the 10 rows. Because 2 rows were added to the original 10 to compensate, there should be 3 needles left in working position (WP).
    Now it's time to return all the HP needles to WP.


    * Push 3 needles back to UWP at the right-hand end of the needles in HP.
    Knit 1 row. Wrap yarn round 1st inside needle in HP and knit one row. *

    Repeat from * to * once more (RC 18).

    *** Push 4 needles back to upper working position (UWP) at the right-hand end of the needles in HP.
    Knit 1 row. Wrap yarn round 1st inside needle in Hold Position (HP) and knit one row. ***
    Repeat from *** to *** two times more (RC 24))

    Knit 6 rows. (RC 30)

    End of section

  8. Repeat the instructions, from Start to End, for as many sections as you need for your cuff. For the sample frill, 7 more sections would be required.

    Cast off with waste yarn




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